Shree Jagannath Temple, Puri

At a glance

• Deities: Lord Jagannath (Krishna as Lord of the Universe), his elder brother Balabhadra, sister Subhadra, and the Sudarshan wheel.
• Location: Grand Road (Bada Danda), Puri, Odisha, near the Bay of Bengal.
• Managed by: Shree Jagannatha Temple Administration, under the Odisha government.
• Entry: only Hindus are permitted inside the temple.
• Official website: shreejagannatha.in, for rituals, festivals and notices.

The Lord of the Universe

Puri is one of the four Char Dham and is also called Purushottama Kshetra and Shree Kshetra. The deities here are unlike any other: large wooden figures with round eyes, Jagannath dark, Balabhadra white and Subhadra yellow. Every so often, in a year with an extra month of Ashadha, the deities are ritually replaced in the secret Nabakalebara ("new body") ceremony, when new images are carved from specially chosen neem trees. The present temple dates from the twelfth century, begun under the Eastern Ganga king Anantavarman Chodaganga Deva, and its main spire is crowned by the Nilachakra wheel and a flag changed every day.

The daily rituals (nitis)

According to the temple's official account of daily rituals, the nitis begin before dawn and continue late into the night:

Darshan is possible between the nitis; during food offerings the inner doors close. On festival days the schedule changes entirely. At night the deities wear the Baralagi Patta, silk woven with verses of Jayadeva's Gita Govinda.

Mahaprasad

Food for the deities is cooked in what is said to be the largest temple kitchen in the world, in earthen pots stacked over wood fires. Once offered, it becomes Mahaprasad, sold at the Ananda Bazar inside the temple complex, where pilgrims of every caste eat together; refusing it is considered a lapse.

Ratha Yatra

On Ashadha shukla dwitiya (June–July), the three deities come out of the temple on three enormous new wooden chariots, Nandighosa, Taladhwaja and Darpadalana, pulled by lakhs of devotees to the Gundicha temple about 3 km away. They return nine days later in the Bahuda Yatra. It is the one time everyone, of any faith, can see Jagannath.

Rules and what to carry

• Only Hindus may enter. Non-Hindu visitors traditionally view the spire and flag from the roof of the Raghunandan Library opposite.
• Mobile phones, cameras, bags and leather items are not allowed inside; use the lockers near the Lion Gate (Singhadwara).
• Footwear must be removed outside. Modest dress is expected.
• Use only official counters and avoid touts offering special darshan.

How to reach

• By air: Biju Patnaik International Airport, Bhubaneswar, about 60 km away.
• By train: Puri station has direct trains from across India.
• By road: frequent buses from Bhubaneswar and Cuttack.

Practical tips

• Enter through the Lion Gate (Singhadwara) on the east, after touching the Aruna Stambha in front of it.
• The Shreemandira Parikrama corridor around the temple makes the walk easier; follow the queue lanes.
• Eat Mahaprasad at Ananda Bazar; many families also take dry prasad (nirmalya) home.
• Sing Om Jai Jagdish Hare or read the Krishna Chalisa before your visit.

Frequently asked questions

Can non-Hindus enter the Jagannath temple?

No, entry is restricted to Hindus. Everyone can see the deities during the Ratha Yatra, when they come out on the chariots.

What is Nabakalebara?

The ceremony in which the wooden deities are replaced with new ones carved from sacred neem trees, held in certain years with an extra Ashadha month; the last was in 2015.

When is the Ratha Yatra?

On Ashadha shukla dwitiya, usually in June or July.

Can I take my phone inside?

No. Phones, cameras and bags must be left in the lockers outside.

What is Ananda Bazar?

The market inside the temple where the Mahaprasad, cooked in earthen pots in the temple kitchen, is sold and eaten.